Day 3 (September 12, 2016) Black Forest


Our route through Black Forest

   We’ll spend this day entirely exploring the most iconic towns and roads in Black Forest, starting from Baden Baden and ending in Freiburg.

   The spots marked at map are:

 A- Baden Baden
 B- Sasbachwalden
 C- Gengenbah
 D- Schiltach
 E- Gutach
 F- Triberg
 G- St. Peter
 H- Freiburgo


Black Forest viewI make a few changes in the plan for today to reach some towns from yesterday’s list. So, instead of taking direction to Offenburg we’ll leave Baden Baden to Freudenstadt and will try to reach Altensteig too. The ones removed from the table then are Sasbachwalden and, depending on the naight take us, St. Peter. In Gutach there is an outdoors museum that we’d already thought to skip.

   With this, we leave Baden Baden to Freudenstadt trying to follow road 500 but, surprisingly, we don’t manage it. When we stop in a lookout with wonderful views of what we want to go I check we’re in a secondary road ending in road 462, in a town named Forbach. At least, it is taking the same direction to Freudenstadt and makes easier reaching Altensteig.

   In our way we pass by Bermersbach, a small village that makes us to stop in a side of the road to take a picture of its beautiful view. The same happens in Forbach. This road has introduced us in these dense and dark forests which give name to this area and is not easy to get in a picture.

Black Forest vegetationForbach


   It’s around 12:30 PM when we reach Altensteig, but when I’m driving along the river I’m wondering where will be the point with the view of the town I’ve got in mind. I find soon the road to Freudenstadt and I take it with hopes of finding it there, but when we’re leaving the town behind it’s clear that it is not, so I turn around to the direction that is pointing to Stuttgart. In the next turn, as it is clear this road is getting further from Altensteig I take the turn with the road going up and that results to be the right one. It’s not only that there is a lookout with the view I was looking for, besides, this road is leading to Freudenstadt too, our next stop.


   At 1:15 PM we’re in Freudenstadt, through landscapes we’re used to more, with shopping malls and modern buildings. It’s the Old Town which takes us back to the Black Forest. We use the parking in Marktplatz as we’re going to lunch here.

Marktplatz in Freudenstadt
Marktplatz in FreudenstadtMarktplatz in Freudenstadt


   Although there are restaurants with food that we like, like Italians, we get into a German one to enjoy the local food: Jagerstuble. We try new things here and they result to be amazingly good: I take maultaschen (a sort of big raviolis) with tomato and Eva takes tellersulzen (a sort meat pie with gelatine). We pay 26.90€ in total. Parking is cheap too: 0.50€ per hour.

Maultaschen at Restaurant JagerstubleMarktplatz view from restaurant

   Around 3 PM we reach Schiltach, with a wonderful old town. The wooden frame houses, typical of this area, are taking the riversides and make this town the most photogenic we’ve seen so far.

Schiltach StreetSchiltach Street

   Every corner here is a delight for the eyes and the maintenance of the houses is amazing. It must be a lot of work behind of this kind of perfection.

Square in SchiltachSchiltach Street

   We leave Schiltach amazed for its beauty, but we’re going now to visit what the most people say is the most beautiful town in Black Forest: Gengenbach. We arrive there after 50 minutes driving on a good road. At 4:45 PM we’re paying 0.50€ for one hour of parking and ready to get into the old town.

   Just after crossing the tower that makes the entrance one can be aware every detail has been taken into account here. Everything is so perfect that I’m feeling like exploring a Grimm brothers’ thematic park. But this is real, even when the main square makes me feel it cannot be.

Gengenbach main square
Kinzigtorturm, the tower we came in fromOberturm, Gengenbach's iconic tower

   I get a map of the town in the tourism office, just in this square and we can see the area to explore is not big. Fortunately, based on Eva’s injured foot, the main things can be seen here around the square. I go for a deeper exploration while my wife is enjoying an ice cream in this fantastic environment.

Gengenbach StreetStadtkirche St. Marien view


   We spend the hour and even some ore minutes here before being back on the same road we used to come but in the opposite direction. We don’t get Schiltach again because we take the road down to Triberg.

Black Forest road

   We can feel the sunset coming when we have to stop twice on a side of the road, before reaching Triberg. This is the area with the concentration of cuckoo clocks stores, and the big ones do their best to make the traveller to stop. It can be with a big and beautiful clock, like the one in Hornberg – at left -, or with the announced as the biggest cuckoo clock in the world, at right. We’re saved from the temptation as the stores are all closed now at 6:30 PM.

Cuckoo clock in HornbergWorld largest Cuckoo clock

   We reach Triberg and its center with stepped streets. The popular waterfalls are not out of the town, as we presumed, but in this center, like if it were a park. This makes the visit very easy as there is no much to walk to be in front of them, in the middle of the nature. We see no one in the entire visit, at 7:15 PM.
Triberg waterfalls
Entrance to Triberg waterfalls

Cuckoo clock store in Triberg


   When we leave Triberg with the only goal now of getting the hotel, in Freiburg outskirts, is 7:30 PM and the dark take us just a few after that.

Sunset in Black Forest

   We have a hard time trying to find the hotel even with GPS, but we finally get it by asking, as it is well known around. The hard part here has been finding someone to ask in the middle of the night.

   Hotel Alemannenhof looks full based on the amount of cars in the parking area. We meet there a very nice Spanish girl in the reception desk who is happy with her live in Germany.

Hotel AlemannenhofOur room at Hotel Alemannenhof