Day 3 (October 22, 2019)   Perito Moreno


Before   

  We’ve got the tour to Perito Moreno for this day. We’ll be picked up in our hotel for our trip to Perito Moreno through route 11 until reaching the incredible views of the front of this glacier from the platforms. Then, we’ll sail along one of its side to reach the glacier itself for a trekking on it.

El Calafate map

After

   We’re ready at 8:30 AM as planned. It’s just a bit after that we’re picked up and, with some more stops by some hotels until getting the coach full, we leave El Calafate to Los Glaciares National Park.
View of Lago Argentino and Andes
   It’s about one hour through these Patagonian landscapes improved by the Lago Argentino. The first stop is by the gates of the National Park to pay 800$ for the access. We’re amazed by the shape of the clouds in the sky.
Los Glaciares National ParkLos Glaciares National Park's gate
   There is one stop more in an area with toilets before reaching the jetty. We could have our first views of the glacier from the bus. The boat sails directly to the jetty at the other side but we’re getting astonishing views of the South wall of the Perito Moreno.

Perito Moreno's Southern wall
Perito Moreno's first viewDisembark at Perito Moreno's coast
   Once in the other side there is a short stroll to the refuge, where we’re leaving the back packs with the lunch we’re bringing from the hotel and everything we don’t need for the trekking on the glacier.

View of Perito Moreno
Going to Perito MorenoGoing to Perito Moreno
  The way from the refuge to the place with the equipment for the glacier is longer and goes through platforms and a big beach. We’re gathered for the helmet delivery and they attach the crampons in our boots. After this we’re ready to go to the glacier.
Getting our cramponsPerito Moreno view
   We have a short walk along the glacier on gravel and we get on the bright ice. We can walk surprisingly easy on the ice with these metal spikes in our feet.

Trekking by Perito MorenoTrekking by Perito MorenoTrekking by Perito MorenoTrekking by Perito Moreno
   It’s a one-hour trekking on which we’re doing several stops for pictures. At the end we’re offered a glass of whisky on glacier ice and a chocolate. Just after the drink they take the crampons and helmet back and come back to the refuge for our lunch. In the way, we pay attention to the calafates, the bush that gives name to the town, full of little yellow flowers. It ends by giving purpled sweet berries.
Fiishing our trekking by Perito MorenoRefuge at Perito Moreno with calafates
   When we finish our meal, while waiting for the boat to come, we enjoy the great views to Perito Moreno’s wall when, suddenly, a huge crack sounds like coming from the sky and makes us look to the place where a column of ice is falling from the wall. The view of this is amazing, but the sound is even more. This is magnificent but we were not expecting it and couldn’t get any picture of it.
Ice fall at Perito Moreno
   When the boat arrives, it goes slowly all along the glacier wall this time so we can enjoy a close view of it and wait for another ice fall, which doesn’t happen.
Sailing by Perito MorenoSailing by Perito Moreno
   After disembarking, the coach is waiting for us. It takes us, in a short ride, to the popular platforms in front of the Perito Moreno. They give us one hour to explore the place at our will.
Platforms in Perito Moreno
   We’re amazed with the views and spend most of the time waiting in front of some ice blocks that look like they’re about to fall but, on despite of hearing strong cracks here and there we don’t manage to see another ice falling. These ice falls to the lake are part of the normal life of the glacier: the snow is continuously coming from the mountains and being accumulated at the top until the pressure is enough to make the entire block of ice that is supporting it to fall. They’ve explained Perito Moreno has the particularity of keeping its size along the years because it’s receiving a similar amount of snow than the one falling to the lake, keeping this balanced.

Glacier Perito Moreno from the platformsGlacier Perito Moreno from the platformsGlacier Perito Moreno from the platforms
   We’re back at the coach by 5 PM, as we were told, and we leave to El Calafate with no stops. We reach the hotel at 6 PM and we’re so tired that we stay in the room until tomorrow.