Day 9 (September 18, 2013)   Maasai Mara to Nairobi

Before   

   Our mission for this day is to get into the train leaving Nairobi station to Mombasa at 7 PM. Before, we had leave Maasai Mara, with the chance of visiting a Maasai village early in the morning, and driving to Nairobi to deliver the car at Rasul’s office, close to the train station.

Route Maasai Mara - Nairobi

   We will sleep in the popular lunatic train, with dinner and breakfast included.

After

   No rushes and we are taking our breakfast again in an empty dining room, where we can sayBroken bridge good bye to Jackson and the staff at the end. We’re leaving early anyway, around 9 AM, as we cannot forecast how many hours are going to be spent in our way to Narok.

    Everything is different at daylight and even the broken bridge so scary when coming is looking easy to save. We’re also driving off road as much as we can, which is where the other cars are going too.

   We can see the main road at our right, emerging from the ground as a massive hard mud mound. Every when and then we think about coming back to it, but when we do, we immediately are looking for the way to leaving it, recalling the hell we’ve been before.

   This way we complete the way to the first junction, where we stop to check the GPS, as we don’t want a mistake here. Then a van stops at our side and asks us for a key. I don’t understand at the beginning, but it seems they’re coming from Rhino Tourist Camp and are asking if we took the key of the room with us. I think we left it at door, but when checking my pockets, I give it to them embarrassed.

Alternative way at left of main roadOur way "off road"
















   They’re going also to Narok and are faster than us, so we soon lose their track, but they’ve already confirmed what I thought: Narok way is always the road at right for every junction.

   We drive through huge plains so barren one would say it is a proper desert. In Maji Moto we have no other choice but driving on the torture tool called road, but just for a short while, as at the end of the town the tarmac appears. It’s around noon, and we’re celebrating the definitive good bye to these evil formations making us tremble for so many hours that Eva has learnt wearing a bra is indispensable for a woman in safari.

Maji Moto's desert

   Free from the rough road we know in about two hours we will be in Nairobi, so we’ll lunch there. We’ve taken something more than three hours to Narok, a new record for us. We could break the previous record by walking, though.

Reaching Narok

   The road up from Rift Valley is slow as there are a lot of trucks. I’ve already becoming one more Kenyan and I’m taking over vehicles without hesitation between the curves and the traffic. There are a lot of people selling grilled corn cobs along the road side.

   Once up, in the Nairobi motorway, we only must follow the road to reach the capital city. But once in it, I cannot know where we are roundabout after roundabout. The skyscrapers are what point me the way to downtown. I drive slowly until I found myself stopped, I’m in Uhuru Hwy.

Kenyatta Avenue in Nairobi downtownMoi Avenue in Nairobi downtown
















   I know how to go to the rental car office from here, but we still have to lunch and is too soon for being in the city with our baggage and without car. So I leave the Highway to go through the downtown streets. But it is a crowded place where, although we can see some places to lunch, I cannot see where to park and I end coming back to the Uhuru Hwy.

Moi Avenue in Nairobi downtownCity Hall Avenue in Nairobi downtown
















     The solution appears at our left, just after passing over the train railways, where we’re going to end this day. An open exit from the highway to a rough road has a sign pointing to restaurant “Le Vans” with secure parking.

   We have no second thoughts, so we’re parking in front of the building after greeting the guard. It looks old from outside, but inside it looks like a strip club at daylight: all painted in pink with no customers. It’s some minutes after 3 PM and I guess everybody in this city has already lunched.

   We use the restroom and ask for the menu, from which we choose a sort of combination plate with goat, rice, fries… The same for the both of us, with coke and wine, we pay less than 2000 ksh.

Outside view of restaurant "Le Vans"Inside view of restaurant "Le Vans"
















   Some minutes past 4 PM we park in front of Rasul’s rental car office to deliver the car. We explain all our adventures with the car to the man and resigns with the 4000 ksh ticket for the tyre change. We’ve done 1797 Kms in total and, after applying a 10% discount -´I don’t know why – and taking the 4000 for the tyre off, we must pay 43565.90 ksh.

   Somehow, the card he took the imprint from is refused and I’m not surprised, so I take my debit card as alternative for the payment, but they cannot use it as it is completely flat an imprint cannot be taken from it. So, I must go to an ATM to get the cash.

Passing over train railways    It’s raining and a Rasul’s assistant takes the same car we’ve been used these days for taking me to the closest ATM. I must use two different ATMS because each of them has a limit of 30000 ksh for withdrawals. Coming back I can check the chaos in the traffic.

    Rasul calls a taxi to take us to the train station, which is just two blocks from here if we go by walking. But these are big blocks and we cannot go with all the baggage and the raining. When saying good bye to Rasul, he gives us a card with the phone number of his uncle in Mombasa, just in case we’ve got in any problems there. These kinds of courtesies are difficult to find in our countries.

   Taxi leaves around 5 PM, we have a lot of time as train leaves at 7 PM and check-in is at 6 PM, but when we are stopped for 30 minutes in a line to get the first roundabout in Uhuru Hwy, even the driver thinks we may not get it. As we still refuse going walking, our driver leaves that motionless line and heads for an alternative way, avoiding the Uhuru Hwy. It is a longer way, but at least we can move forward here and we reach the station at 6:320 PM. This area is crowded, and there are a lot of buses as well… How different from what we see when coming to purchasing the tickets!
Nairobi train station
    We do the check-in and we’re delivered two small rectangles of hard and thick cardboard which are our tickets. We’re explained we must look for car 1202.

   We can see the trains are in the platform in the middle, so we must join all the people in taking the underground pass way. When we’re out in the platform, we can see a train looking as departing soon, and all the people is going into it. It looks crowded and I ask in a man in one door id that is the one to Mombasa and he answers it is not and point me across the platform to the dark and empty train as the one we’re looking for.

   And it is. When the crowded train leaves only a few tourists remain in the platform. We get in chat with an Australian family and a German young man, in front of the car 1202, while waiting for being allowed to get in.

   It is not going to leave at the scheduled time. It is clear when the lights are on and we can finally occupy our cabins later than 7 PM.

Passway in Lunatic trainOur cabin in Lunatic train
















   The mission for today is accomplished and, with it, we’ve almost accomplished the targets for the whole travel, as we only have to rest at beach.

   Train departs quite late and goes for a minute, just to stop in Nairobi outskirts in order we can take our diner, which is good. We take some soup, a piece of chicken, rice, etc… but the drinks are not included, so we pay 150 ksh by a half a liter water bottle.

Lunatic train leaving Nairobi stationLunatic train leaving Nairobi station
















   When we’re back from the diner, our seats have already become into two beds. We leave the window almost down, but the mosquito net up and closed as we’ve been recommended in the restaurant car.

Nairobi by night from the train